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2015 ISAKOS CONGRESS

“I know of one thing

that you can do well in

Lyon, and that’s eat,”

the 19th-century French novelist Stendhal remarked.

Two centuries later, the image of France’s third-
largest metropolis is still buried under a heap of food.

Long considered France’s capital of gastronomy,
Lyon is blessed with culinary history as rich as its

extraordinary produce. When the French economy
crashed after World War I, the city’s formidable

female chefs shifted their talents from wealthy
mansions to the city’s restaurants and bouchons,
using the region’s fine ingredients to prepare simple

yet perfect meals. The ‘’machons’’ (translated as
an informal meal) and the ‘’bouchons,’’ (translated

to home-cooking) fed the city’s silk workers and
developed into Lyon’s most adored style of cuisine.

Lyon is home to twenty true bouchons, most of

which are located in the well-traveled sections
of the city. All are distinctly casual, very popular
(reservations are a must) and filled with Lyonnais.

While execution may vary, the food is the essence
of homey-ness. Diners will find a variety of bistro

staples – from mackerel with white wine to Lyon’s
celebrated charcuterie to tete de veau and pike

quenelles (the delicate dumplings are a Lyonnais
specialty)–as well as dishes peculiar to bouchons.

These include Lyonnais salads composed of

dandelion greens or frisee lettuce tossed with bacon,
croutons and poached egg; salads of sheep’s feet

seasoned with a tart remoulade sauce; gateau de
foie de volaille (a steamed pudding-like dish made

of chicken livers) served in a bechamel sauce and
garnished with quenelles or ravioli; sabodet, a
sausage made of pig’s head; and tripe – the most

bouchon-esque of all dishes: a large wedge of tripe
marinated in wine, breaded and fried and served

with a piquant sauce.

It is often said that Lyon is crossed by three rivers,
the Rhone, the Saone and the Beaujolais, the wine
most closely associated with the city. Beaujolais is

characterized with gentle tannins, juicy fruit and a
light to medium body. Beaujolais wines have a bold

minerality and the thin-skinned Gamay grapes create
a fresh, tart acidity that stands up to hearty meals

and offers big flavors that won’t overpower subtle
dishes. Beaujolais is delicious with roast chicken,
sausage and beef; as well as an ideal choice for a

spicy meal. The sweetness and relatively low alcohol
content makes Beaujolais perfect for hot dishes that

feature peppers or curries.

We hope Congress attendees have the opportunity
to enjoy the diverse culinary culture of Lyon!

ISAKOS NEWSLETTER 2014: Volume II 9